One of my earliest memories of being excited about plants comes from the heirloom amaryllises my grandpa had packed on every windowsill in their house. He kept them outside on a table or bench each summer, bringing them inside before the weather got cold. They bloomed in scattered succession from November to March. The antique bulbs were inherited from his mother—a non-hybrid species variety with salmon, daylily-sized flowers on curved stems that pale in comparison to the treelike poles bearing clusters of dinner-plate blossoms you find for sale in department stores each year leading up to Christmas. The heirloom has its charm, though, and is hard to find now except in rare specialty shops at a high price.
I was so excited about my grandpa’s amaryllises that he gave me one when I was early elementary school age and it was my first experience caring for an indoor plant. I eagerly propagated it into a small collection. In our embarrassment of riches, though, our family took the antique bulbs for granted. Some were tossed intentionally when they developed scale infestations or mealybugs, others were left out by accident past the first frost and transformed into sorrowful piles of soggy slime. Priority went to newer and more varied kinds of houseplants. I started collecting other types of hybrid amaryllises, cross-pollinating them and creating experimental hybrids with their seeds, and found myself short on space. I didn’t take any plants with me when I went off to college, and after my grandpa passed away in 2017, the last of his heirloom amaryllis bulbs froze to death in a cold snap that penetrated so deep it froze and killed the bulbs that had been stored in pots in their garage.
Sometimes, we don’t appreciate things until they’re almost gone. The amaryllis collection gradually dwindled down to a single specimen now siting on the floor next to the sliding glass door at my parents’ house, infected with a mosaic virus that stunts its growth. In healthier form the variety produces a constant supply of offsets, and my grandpa used to save them all and pot them up to form his vast collection of clones.
A note on names: amaryllis is a misnomer
The flowers we all know as amaryllis are technically not amaryllises at all, but hippeastrums. True amaryllises are temperamental plants native to of South Africa, a genus containing only two species, one fairly common—Amaryllis belladonna—and another extremely rare and yet-uncultivated offshoot only recently identified as a separate species. They are best suited for growing outdoors in dry-summer Mediterranean climates, such as coastal California, where they multiply rapidly and are so resilient that they’ve come to litter abandoned farmhouse plots and hug the neglected corners of parking lots. In contrast, these true amaryllises rot in hot humid climates and are very difficult to master indoors.
True amaryllises are commonly referred to as naked ladies or surprise lilies. (And as if the naming confusion wasn’t complicated enough, those common names also apply to the separate but visually near-indistinguishable species Lycoris squamigera, which tolerates colder winters and the humid continental weather of the eastern U.S.) But the genus Hippeastrum, with hundreds of species that have been hybridized to countless colorful cultivars, is much more diverse and widely commercialized than Amaryllis. So it gets credit for stealing all the attention, and the common name.
Most people treat their amaryllis/hippeastrum as a throwaway seasonal decoration, like a poinsettia, enjoying it for a week or two of blooms and then tossing it out to buy a new one the following year. But some people are tempted to try to save their plants, and find them difficult. The plants are drought-tolerant and can hibernate for a long time so they’re close to invincible when it comes to keeping them alive in some form, but the problem is that amaryllis/hippeastrums prefer a lot more light than is available to most houseplants. Struggling to achieve reblooms, people have come up with an array of amaryllis care myths that only complicate the task of growing a healthy plant. In truth, amaryllis/hippeastrums are pretty simple and low-maintenance when put in the right spot.
Getting amaryllises to rebloom
Hippeastrum is a tropical genus native to equatorial parts of South America, and as such, it doesn’t experience much seasonal variation. It has the ability to go dormant in drought, but dormancy isn’t necessary for any purpose. The plant will rebloom in winter or spring on a windowsill without intentional forcing, although, if you have any particular concern about the timing, you can force a brief dormancy by withholding water in fall and re-introducing watering six weeks before you want the plant to bloom. Because dormancy takes time away from photosynthesis, and forces the bulb to sacrifice its existing foliage and invest energy into regrowing it later, I prefer not to force dormancy; flowers typically show up at any time January through May in the popular hybrids and that’s fine with me.
Size is everything
With every five to seven leaves, the amaryllis/hippeastrum plant produces an embryonic flower bud that hangs out inside the bulb until the right conditions occur for the inflorescence to develop. The increasing day length just after the winter solstice will set things in motion, although sometimes just moving the plant to a new spot, or other triggers—intentional or idiosyncratic—will set it off. The only thing that really matters in making flowering possible is growing a big, fat healthy bulb with the energy stores necessary to support the enormous blooms. Lacking a sufficient bulb size, the embryonic flowers will eventually self-abort.
Different cultivars of amaryllis/hippeastrum bear different sized bulbs, from the size of a shallot in dwarf varieties to a hefty grapefruit in the giant ones. Given the vast genetic range in size, an easy way to tell whether your amaryllis bulb is on track to rebloom is the bulb’s shape. If it’s fat and squat like an onion, that means it’s swelling rapidly, and is likely close to the maximum size and will have the strength to bloom. If it’s more slender like a leek or daffodil bulb, it has probably regressed to a juvenile phase and needs more time to build reserves.
The brightest light builds the biggest bulbs
And for this, the biggest challenge most indoor gardeners have with amaryllis bulbs is giving them enough light. They are at their best outdoor plants in warm climates, where they can naturalize in light shade. When grown at northern lattitudes, they perform best in a greenhouse, sunroom, or a south-facing window. Unless your home is uncommonly well-lit, your best bet is putting the plant directly on the windowsill or as close to it as possible since natural light diminishes dramatically even a couple feet from the glass. Or, you can place the plants outside in partially-shaded areas for summer (ideally in areas sheltered from too much wind or foot traffic). But beware: the straplike amaryllis leaves are prone to kinking or breaking, and when moved, the plant likes to let its existing foliage die off and produce new leaves, which uses precious energy. So you’re most likely to get a large, healthy bulb if you find an ideal spot and leave the plant there without moving it at all for at least 6 months at a time.
Water, soil and fertilizing amaryllis bulbs
Amaryllises are relatively forgiving when it comes to water. It’s good to water them thoroughly for a while and then let them dry out periodically, but avoid leaving them so dry that they begin to drop leaves. In bright summer light and in full leaf, one of the larger plants can use more than a quart of water per week, and in the lush vegetative period it’s OK to keep the soil continually moist. Occasionally, it’s good to let the soil surface become dry to the touch to avoid rot.
Most commercial indoor potting blends are OK for amaryllis, but if the soil is too dense or peaty I like to add perlite, or mix standard potting media with succulent mix. The container should be at least 3 times the diameter of a full-sized bulb, and have drainage holes. (Pots without drainage holes are doomed to failure, which is unfortunate when so many amaryllis grow kits come with pots with no drainage—perhaps the growers’ insurance that customers will have to come back for a new purchase next year?)
Amaryllis should be planted with two thirds of the bulb above the soil surface and should not be repotted often; their thick succulent roots are an expensive investment and disturbing them will force them to regrow, reducing the bulb’s size. They’re more likely to rebloom when rootbound and it is OK to combine bulbs in a container or allow bulbs to coexist with their own offsets. If you choose to force dormancy, it is possible to do so by withholding water or moving the plant into darkness without removing the bulb from its pot. If over the years the soil begins to lose volume or lose its ability to hold water, it’s possible to lift the plant and add soil without completely exposing the root system, although plants will be fine if repotting is limited to every 3-5 years.
Finally, amaryllises are a plant that enjoys a regular feeding, with dilute, well-balanced fertilizer, particularly in the fast-growing vegetative period in summer. That’s when you can really capitalize on the long days and bright light and grow a very large bulb. Avoid fertilizing them in the months leading up to blooming season, since nitrogen will stimulate long stems that are more prone to breaking. To avoid excessive accumulation of fertilizer salts, once or twice a year you can set the container in the sink and flush it thoroughly, letting water drain through the bottom of the pot, then try to return it to the same position it was growing in previously so it doesn’t behave as though it has been moved.
Bringing it home
Some amaryllis cultivars are hardier than others—apparent when identical windowsill conditions produce bulbs of vastly different sizes. In my experience, red or orange-flowered varieties tend to be more vigorous and light pink or white plants are more temperamental, often failing to rebloom when others would. But I don’t know if there’s anything substantial behind that pattern or if it’s just a coincidence. Regardless, it’s more than possible to keep a collection of amaryllis plants alive as houseplants indefinitely, for reliable repeat blooms, as long as you have the light and space. It seems like a shame to toss a perfectly healthy bulb that just finished blooming, and often department stores and clearances will put remaining bulbs on a deep clearance sale just after the season ends with Christmas. If you find yourself tempted, give it a try!
Summary
- Amaryllises can be easy plants to grow, but need more light than most houseplants to grow large enough to bloom.
- Keep amaryllises in a sunroom or south-facing window, as close to the glass as possible, to give them brighter light.
- If you decide to put amaryllises outside for the summer, choose a sheltered, lightly-shaded spot. Be sure to bring them back in well before frost.
- A dormancy period is not necessary to get amaryllises to rebloom. It may be easier to grow a larger plant if you don’t force them to go dormant, and avoid pruning off leaves while they are still green.
- The natural blooming season for amaryllises indoors is late winter or early spring.
- The main factor determining whether an amaryllis can bloom is the size of the bulb. A fat, onion-shaped bulb is a good sign that the plant has enough stored energy, while a thin, slender bulb is likely in a juvenile stage.
- Amaryllises need a container with drainage holes in the bottom to thrive.
- Try to move the plant as little as often so that the plant doesn’t drop its leaves.
- Applying a dilute, well-balanced fertilizer in summer is helpful to promote lots of leafy growth that enlarges the bulb.
- Water amaryllis bulbs deeply and thoroughly, then let the soil begin to dry out on the surface before watering again. They can survive long periods without water, but will do better with regular water.